Halfway through the Paolo Scavino wine dinner, Casey Squire, who works for importer Banville & Jones, mosied nonchalantly over to our table and plunked down a bottle of 2007 Bric Del Fiasc.
It’s the producer’s flagship bottle, and we eagerly quaffed what was already in our glasses (probably Scavino’s Nebbiolo) and poured ourselves a taste.
Notes of tar and roses were present, but also herbs and spices reminiscent of Christmas in the most iconic and nostalgic way. Black, rich, and bold, this wine is perfect for that long holiday dinner with family.
Scavino wines are a nice compliment to Papavero’s rustic food, and the kitchen was in fine form for the five course pairing.
We started with a glass of Scavino Blanco, 70% sauvignon blanc 30% Chardonnay.
The opening dish was a beautiful autumnal salad. A bit bitter, but also a tinge sweet with just a hint of vinegar, it was a quintessential fall starter and set the tone nicely for what was to come next.
Insalata autunnale: grilled and cold endives, walnuts, Medjool dates, toasted pomegranate seeds, and goat gorgonzola. It was paired with the 2010 Barbera D’Alba.
Course two brought Scavino Vino Rosso, the entry blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from younger vines. It has strong tannins but is also bright and well balanced. This was accompanied by a stew, Zuppa di pane e cozze: Tuscan kale, octopus (although there wasn’t any in mine), black mussels, country-style bread, and cranberry beans. The soup was delicious, but sadly I didn’t get a picture of it.
Course three was Tortelli aretini: sausage and potato-filled tortelli, brown butter, and Pecorino. It was accompanied by the 2008 Nebbiolo. This was also served in a bowl, and brought the classic flavors of brown butter and tart cheese to the table.
The piece de resistance was Cinghiale in due modi: wild boar chop, wild boar terrine, and parmesan gratin. Essentially, it was boar two ways— a succulent little chop as well as a rich terrine. Sadly, I did not get a picture of this either as I was still distracted by the arrival of the Bric Del Fiasc. This nicely executed and gamey dish was paired with the Barolo.
Dessert was Budino di zucca: kabocha squash-caramel custard and a shortbread cookie. The soft squash with caramel played against the salty, toothy, shortbread wonderfully.